6116 JACKET WITH SEPARABLE HOOD
YOU NEED: whipcord; lining (fleece or jersey); fusing; unadhesive fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front length including stand-up collar’s height); 2 zippers (depending on pocket’s length); 1 zipper for separable hood; elastic cord for hood; 2 ends for cord; 2 holders for cord; Velcro.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 4.5 cm for upper detail’s lower allowance; 3.5 cm for hood’s front edge; 0 cm for lining hem (lining reaches hem line).
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 1 piece
3. Front yoke – 2 pieces
4. Back yoke – 1 piece
5. Side front part – 2 pieces
6. Side back part – 2 pieces
7. Sleeve center insert – 2 pieces
8. Sleeve front insert – 2 pieces
9. Sleeve back insert – 2 pieces
10. Sleeve insert – 4 pieces
11. Side sleeve insert – 4 pieces
12. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
13. Sleeve half-belt – 4 pieces
14. Hood – 2 pieces
15. Hood center part – 1 piece
16. Outer collar – 1 piece
17. Front band – 2 pieces
18. Large sacking – 2 pieces
19. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
20. Front part – 2 pieces
21. Back part – 1 piece
22. Sleeve – 2 pieces
23. Small sacking – 2 pieces
24. Hood – 2 pieces
25. Hood center part – 1 piece
26. Inner collar – 1 piece
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, press it along the center. Apply the fusing to pocket place. Mark a line determining ready welt’s width on the welt. Lay the welt on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking lining and line on welt. Welt’s outer side must coincide with right side of side front part. Stitch the welt. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines diagonally towards pocket marking’s corners. Turn the welt wrong side out. Press seam allowances apart. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance. Stitch the zipper at 0.1 cm from pocket entrance on front part’s right side. Stitch small sacking to zipper’s lower braid, then fold it under. Stitch large sacking to zipper’s upper braid. Stitch sackings’ edges. Sackings’ edges must enter into seam joining the zipper and reach the hem.
2. Stitch side parts to front/back parts, then topstitch. Stitch sleeve side parts to front/back parts. Stitch sleeve inserts to front/back yokes. Stitch sleeve center/front/back inserts together, then topstitch. Stitch front/back yokes to sleeve inserts, then topstitch. Topstitch Velcro on inner side of sleeve half-belt and on lower sleeve. Overstitch sleeve half-belt, turn it right side out and topstitch along the contour. Stitch lower sleeve to sleeve center part. Stitch jacket ready upper parts to lower parts along yokes’ edge inserting sleeve half-belt, then topstitch. Stitch side seams and sleeve seams. Stitch outer collar into neckline, inserting the zipper for hood.
3. Stitch fabric hood and hood lining. Topstitch the hood along center part. Stitch the lining to the hood along lower edge inserting the zipper. Insert the lining into hood, topstitch lower edge. Press edge line under and topstitch it on the lining making a coulisse. Pull elastic coed with holders into the hood.
4. Press inner edge of front band into wrong side and topstitch front band on front part’s lining. Stitch jacket’s lining. Apply unadhesive fusing to wrong side of inner collar. Stitch inner collar into lining neckline.
5. Lay one part of zipper on edging right sides together (directing teeth from edging). Overstitch edgings and collar edges with lining inserting the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.
6. Stitch the lining to sleeves, then topstitch. Make holes for the cord into hem lining. Press the hem first at 1 cm, then 3.5 cm under. Topstitch the hem.
7. Topstitch edgings and the collar.
8. Press ready jacket.
9. Pull the elastic cord with holders into jacket’s hem.