YOU NEED: whipcord with a pattern; knitted fabric lining; warmer; fusing; 1 separable zipper (length depends on garment front length); elastic braid of 5.5 cm width for waistband.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams.
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 1 piece
3. Collar – 2 pieces
4. Large sacking – 2 pieces
5. Off-set welt – 2 pieces
6. Waistband – 1 piece
7. Waistband placket – 2 pieces
8. Front part – 2 pieces
9. Back part – 1 piece
10. Small sacking – 2 pieces
Topstitch the warmer to wrong side of back/front parts, sleeves, placket and outer collar according to contour.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of the welt, press the welt along the center. Lay fusing reinforcement under pocket place. Mark a line on the welt determining ready welt’s width. Topstitch small sacking on welt’s wrong side. Lay the welt on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking and the line on the welt. Welt’s outer side must coincide with front part’s right side. Stitch the welt. Stitch large sacking to upper line of pocket marking. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines making diagonal slashes towards corners of pocket marking. Turn pocket details wrong side out. Press seam allowances. Stitch sackings’ edges fixing pocket’s corners. Sacking edges must enter the seam joining the zipper and reach the hem.
2. Stitch shoulder edges. Topstitch shoulder seam at back part. Stitch side seams.
3. Stitch lining details.
4. Fix elastic braid into waistband making 2 decorative stitches. Stitch plackets to waistband. Stitch the waistband to waistcoat. Fix waistband plackets on wrong side to front part’s lining.
5. Lay zipper’s part on edging right sides together (teeth are outwards edging). Overstitch edgings with lining inserting the zipper. Overstitch the collar and stitch it into the neckline. Stitch the lining to waistband.
6. Turn the garment right side out though a armhole and stitch the lining to armhole.
7. Topstitch the edgings and the collar.
8. Press ready garment.