6112 WAISTCOAT WITH HOOD
YOU NEED: whipcord; lining; fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front length including stand-up collar’s height); 2 zippers (depending on pocket’s length); elastic braid; 4 holders for cord; 4 metallic blocks.
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS PROVIDED,
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE SINGLE CONTOUR, THE SEAM ALLOWANCE IS NOT PROVIDED.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 1 cm for all seams, 4.5 cm for upper part’s lower edges, 0 cm for lining hem (lining reaches hem line).
ATTENTION! Before sewing, print paper patterns and lay them out according to the linen width (from 90 to 150 cm) to find out how much material you need (do not forget about double and symmetric details).
WHEN SEWING, BE CAREFUL WITH NOTCHES – THEY MUST BE COINCIDING!
1. Front part – 2 pieces
2. Back part – 1 piece
3. Side front part – 2 pieces
4. Side back part – 2 pieces
5. Hood – 2 pieces
6. Hood center part – 1 piece
7. Large sacking – 2 pieces
8. Hood facing – 1 piece
9. Front part – 2 pieces
10. Back part – 1 piece
11. Small sacking – 2 pieces
12. Hood – 2 pieces
13. Hood center part – 1 piece
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of pocket place on front part. Stitch side part to front part, excepting pocket entrance. Slash allowances into corners. Press the seam towards front part, press pocket entrance apart. Stitch the zipper with small sacking to front part. Stitch zipper’s another part with large sacking to side front part. Stitch sackings together. Make fixings along pocket entrance and make decorative stitch. Sackings’ edges must entrance the seam joining the zipper and reach garment hem.
2. Stitch side parts to back part. Topstitch joining seams. Stitch shoulder edges together. Topstitch shoulder seam at back part. Stitch side seams. Stitch hood parts together. .
3. Topstitch the hood along hood center part. Stitch the hood into neckline. Set blocks into the hood.
4. Stitch waistcoat lining. Stitch hood lining together and stitch it to hood facing. Stitch hood lining into lining neckline.
5. Lay a part of zipper on edging right sides together (teeth are from edging). Overstitch edging and hood edges with lining inserting the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.
6. Overstitch armholes with lining, then topstitch.
7. Make loops for the cord into hem allowance. Press hem allowance under (first at 1 cm, them at 3.5 cm). Topstitch garment hem.
8. Topstitch edgings and hood.
9. Topstitch ready waistcoat.
10. Pull the elastic braid into the hood and garment hem.